Miso-Maple Butter Grilled Salmon Heads

Ask for the head and most fish counters will hand it over for next to nothing, sometimes free. That's strange, because the cheeks and the collar are the richest meat on the whole salmon. They sit close to the bone, they cook fast, and they take charcoal smoke better than a fillet ever will.

Split the head lengthwise so both halves lie flat and you have two pieces that behave a little like small steaks. Hard sear on the direct side to crisp the skin, then over to the cool side under a lid where the miso-maple butter can caramelize instead of burning. The glaze earns its keep: miso for salt and depth, maple for the sugar that browns, Maggi for a savory low note underneath, and enough butter to keep basting until the cheek flakes away from the bone with a fork.

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Prep 15m
Cook 15m
Total 30m
Serves 2 as a main
Difficulty Intermediate
Equipment Thaan Grill

Ingredients

Instructions

  1. Rinse the split head and pat it completely dry with paper towels. Coat lightly with neutral oil and season with kosher salt.
  2. Whisk the melted butter, white miso, maple syrup, grated garlic, Maggi, lemon juice, and lemon zest until smooth.
  3. Build a two-zone fire, high direct heat on one side and indirect on the other. Oil the grates thoroughly.
  4. Lay the halves skin-side down over direct heat for 4 to 5 minutes until the skin crisps, then flip cut-side down for 3 minutes to brown.
  5. Move the halves to the cool side, cut-side up. Brush generously with the glaze, close the lid, and cook 3 to 5 minutes until the glaze caramelizes and the cheek meat flakes easily.
  6. Pull off the grill and rest 2 minutes. Top with sliced scallions and toasted sesame seeds.

Frequently asked

Where do I get a salmon head?

Ask at any fish counter that breaks down whole salmon. Most will sell you one for a few dollars or hand it over free, since heads usually go to stock or get tossed. Call ahead if you want it on a specific day.

Can I split the head myself?

Yes, though a fishmonger will do it in seconds and remove the gills for you. If you're doing it at home you need a heavy knife and steady pressure straight down through the center, then pull the gills out with your hands or kitchen shears. The gills are bitter and must come out either way.

Which parts do I actually eat?

The cheeks are the two round nuggets behind the eyes, and they're the prize. The collar meat along the underside is fattier and pulls off in strips. There's also good meat around the crown and along the jaw. Work it with your fingers and a fork.

How do I know it's done?

The cheek meat flakes away from the bone with light pressure and turns opaque all the way through. Salmon heads are forgiving because of the fat content, so a minute or two long won't dry them out the way a fillet would.

Can I substitute the miso or the Maggi?

Red miso works and gives a deeper, saltier glaze, so pull back slightly on the amount. For the Maggi, soy sauce is the closest swap, though you lose some of the savory backbone. Fish sauce works too if you want to push it toward the Thai side.

Can I make the glaze ahead?

Yes. Mix it up to three days ahead and refrigerate. It will solidify, so warm it gently before brushing so it spreads instead of clumping.